Bic's Drawing Class - Lesson 1
Starring Psylocke and NightWind
Aloha, below is the various stepsof coloring most of the images I do . Products used are PhotoShop 3.05 (will work on PhotoShop 4 & 5; might be similar to other paint programs), and LightWave 3D 5.6 (usually only for backgrounds). As of this writing, I'm still using a mouse for all my coloring. I do the line work in Pencil/and or Ink.
~Bic
The original scanned image. I always save a backup of the original, in case something goes wrong. If your memory allows for it, work in a large format. For example this image was scanned in at 255dpi and at 2049x1437!! Feel free to clean up any mistakes at this point.
Make this layer seperate from your background layer, IF you are going to make a background. Change MODE to RGB (if you scanned the image as a greyscale image), this allows colors to be added to the picture. I opted to leave the linework black.
In Adobe Photoshop, create a layer for the skin, that way you don't accidently erase the linework.. Now there are numerous ways to color. The two most popular modes are 1.) selecting the areas you want to paint (in the Line art layer), expanding the selection a few pixels, and switching to the skin layer and paint the selected areas. 2.) Start coloring on the skin layer and don't worry about cooloring outside the lines, when done erase the 'extra areas'. I use step one, though it does take longer.
For either step, you must make the layer mode 'multiply'. This allows you to color while retaining the linework in the previous layer. Once you've made the base or flat color for the skin (in this case R:248 G:244 B:206, an off-yellow), save the image (It's a good idea to save any work at either time intervals or steps. I learned this the hard way. Colored an image for three hours, and before I could save, the power went out. I lost all that work and had to do it over again.)
At this point you could make a new layer, set it to 'multiply', and begin with the flesh tones or just do it on the same layer (I opted to do all the flesh in one layer). I use the airbrush tool at about 20-30% to add color tones going from light to dark, the exception being white highlights, they vary (8-22%) depending on how strong I want the shine to be. A strong sense of light and shadow comes into play here. Reference is great, but if you don't have it, just think it through and be consistant. When you've feel that you finished the skin, save it and try using the 'Guassian Blur' Filter. Play with the settings (I like about 3-5 pixels). You'll notice the skin colors blend some and become more 'real'. Then do the eyes, lips, and fingernails (tattoos, nipples) using the previous ways (Since there usually small, you can skip the Gaussian Blur filter if so inclined).
NOTE: PhotoShop 4 & 5 have up to 15 layers of undo!! So you can afford to make some mistakes or try a new approach without having to use the File-> Revert command like I do in PS 3.05. It's still a good idea to save often, though regardless of the version.
NOTE: It's a good idea to make some custom brushes of large sizes, a 200pixel or even a 400 pixel brush. These can come in handy from time to time.
Using a different layer for the hair (again in the 'multiply' mode), build up the colors like the skin previuosly, with the exception of shading in the flow direction of the hair. Bluring here is in the eye of the beholder. As soon as I figure out a good way to do hair more realistically, I'll post it.
On a New layer ('multiply' mode), start adding the colors for the clothes. Work in sections at a time. For example, Psylocke's costume (the blue portion) first, then her belt, then the red areas of NightWind's garments, etc. Go from light to dark, just like watercolors. If you decide to use textures to accenuate the costumes and props, its best to do the shading first. Then open a new image of the desired texture (you may have to play with the size), select all (CTRL+A), and go to Edit-> Define Pattern. Go back to coloring image, select the area where you want to apply it, then go to Edit-> Fill->use Pattern, set the opactity for your desired effect and set mode to 'multply' (that way it keeps the shading you've just done). Apply it. At this point add white hightlights were needed (or other colored highlights if the picture calls for it.)
NOTE: I used a leather texture for NightWind's gloves and straps, and a clouds texture image (not the Filter) for the metal on the sword and NightWinds's hair (which was a mistake and cleaned up later.) Both can be found on the PhotoShop CD in the goddies folder. The gold texture for the buttons was a texture image supplied to me long ago, I forgot where. The blade of the katana was done with the gradient tool.
Wanting to experiment with adding 'fluids' to my girls, I added another layer and did not change the mode yet. Using white and the 'paintbrush' (Panitbrush options: 100% & Wet edges), I started adding the dribbling liquid from Nightwind's womanhood, logically adding some to the sword handle. Once I got the desired shape and consistancy (It looks horrible at the moment, but don't worry), I played with the various Layer Modes and found that 'screen' (81% opacity) looked the best (Test with all layers turned on).
Next on a new layer, I wanted to give the impession that Psylocke had just sucked NightWind's breast. So using the same steps for the 'dibbling' effect I got the desired look. When playing with the modes, I noticed that while 'screen' works great for the netherfluids, it did not have the sublty that saliva has. So I tried the 'soft light' mode (100%) and viola! there was the look I craved. (Also added the pool of fluid on NightWinds clothes on this layer.)
I still felt that it was not wet enough. So I made a new layer at 'screen' mode (100%) and used the paint brush to make the 'spray' effect. When all were veiwed together I felt I achieved the look I was looking for.
NOTE: Layer Modes are in red on the images.
If you are incorporating a background image, there are a couple of ways to do so. The one that works best for me, is to first make sure you LineWork layer is seperate from the BackGround layer (If not, just use the copy layer command in the Layer options). Next select the Background elements in the Linework layer with the 'magic wand' tool. Make a New layer under the Lineart layer and just above the Background Layer. Activate this layer and fill the selection with white. Deselect and go to the background layer and make it a solid color (in this case black). Turn off viewing on all but the last three layers (Lineart, White areas, and BackGround). Change the Lineart mode from normal to 'darken' (This makes it so that light colors are transparant and darks are not). Go to White areas Layer and clean up so that you can see the inework for the characters and props, but not the background.)
Your BackGround can be anything, a picture, a graident fill, etc. In this case I wanted an Oriental feel but it needed to have muted colors so that it would not detract from the foreground. I quickly made one and textured it in Lightwave 3D using a screen wall object and a kimono pattern I had used for another image. The floor was done as a simple thin box textured with a wood pattern. Once renderd, I imported the file to PhotoShop and pasted it on the background layer. Then I added the shadows (black spots) with the airbrush tool (25%).
NOTE: This is an example of what my layers look like in PhotoShop for this image. The words in red are the 'Layer Modes' each layer is in.
STEP SEVEN: (Final Picture)
Do some touch up if needed, then go to the layers pallete. Click on the arrow pointing right and a menu will pop up. Choose flatten image. Resize the image for a posting or a web page, and save it as a .jpg (or whatever file format you prefer).
NOTE: I always work on a picture at least twice the size of the final outcome. I find that this gives me more leway in touch up and other editing features. However, this method does use a lot of memory.
Back to Main Tutorial Page
For comments, you can reach Bic at alt.binaries.pictures.erotica.cartoons, alt.binaries.pictures.erotica.cartoons.original-art, or at bic@shaka.com.
Page created 06/26/99 by Bic.
STEP ONE: (Line Art Layer)
STEP TWO: ("Skin" - Color Layer)
STEP THREE: (Hair Color Layer)
STEP FOUR: (Clothes & Accesories Layer)
STEP FIVE: (Special Effects Layer[s])
STEP SIX: (White Image Layer)
STEP SIX: (BackGround Layer)
(Click for larger image)
Pages are best viewed in 1024x768. Drawings provided and created by Bic. Psylocke and NightWind are copyrighted by Marvel Comics. This page is for Educational Puropses only.